How to Build a Rabbit Hutch Step by Step on a Budget

“In our case, my lady and I cut a spread out of rocky, bushy, wooded hills so dense even the copperheads had to use what was left of the old wood trail to pass through. We had to go the organic gardening route to have any plant life other than bullbriers or scrub blueberries on the land, as it is truly worn out. Along with the soil and reforesting bit, the husbandry of animals is in progress and our hillside is slowly being covered with small hutches and sheds, each an experiment on budget and maximum serviceability.

“One of our most satisfying projects has been the raising of rabbits. This economical endeavor produces both high protein food and exceptionally rich garden fertilizer (rabbit manure outstrips poultry, horse and cow manure in nitrogen and phosphate content and matches horse manure in potash values) and has been too long overlooked by most folks.

“Even a small-scale rabbit venture pays solid returns but fancy breeds, fancy coops and fancy feed won’t teach you any more than trying the same thing with a buck and a doe from the guy down the road.

“A couple of the inexpensive hutches shown in this article should house your first rabbits just fine: The animals were successfully raised in far less substantial quarters long before this antibiotic age. With a little common sense and a little loving daily care anyone can raise the pesky critters. Just keep them clean and forget the Easter bunny bit. Ask the guy down the road what he fed them and follow suit.”

Build a Rabbit Hutch Step by Step

Here is an inexpensive hutch with which you can gain maximum results from rabbits. Constructed basically of 1×2 furring strips, 1 inch mesh chicken wire and tar paper, the coop is light enough to be moved from area to area before and after the growing season and out of the prevailing winds to a sheltered spot during the blustery winter months. For further protection, either black building paper or cardboard can be tacked to the sides and back.

The floor, well covered with litter, will provide additional comfort for the rabbits and excellent mulch for your garden.

Building Supplies

• 3 pieces-2 in. x 3 in. x 8 ft.
• 120 ft.-1 in. x 2 in. spruce furring strip
• 1 pound of 4 penny galvanized common nails
• 2 pounds of 16 penny galvanized spikes
• 1 box of blue carpet tacks
• 2 pairs of 2 in. hinges
• 2 small galvanized hooks and eyes
• 5 lineal ft.-1/2 in. x 30 in. wide galvanized hardware mesh
• 30 lineal ft.-1 in. x 24 in. wise chicken wire
• 14 lineal ft.-black building paper
• 24 square feet-30lb. roofing paper
• 1 qt.-shingle cement

Step 1: Floor Frame

Cut (and cut ’em square!) three pieces of 2×3 lumber, 24-3/4-inch-long and spike to the 8 foot 2x3s as shown in Figure 1. Then staple on a 1/2-by-30-by-60-inch piece of galvanized wire with staples spaced 3 inches apart. Now, for convenience in building, set frame on four cement blocks.

Step 2:Ends

Cut the following pieces of 1×2 furring strip to length and nail as in Figure 2.

• 2 pieces 22 inches long
• 2 pieces 26 inches long
• 2 pieces 30 inches long
• 2 pieces 30-1/4 inches long

Remember, one is for the left side and the other is for the right, so lay pieces out accordingly before nailing. After frames have been assembled, cut and staple 1-inch chicken wire to the outside surfaces and trim off excess. Lay frames on a solid surface during stapling to make the job easier.

Step 3: Back Section

Cut the following pieces and nail as shown in Figure 3.

• 2 pieces 60 inches long
• 3 pieces 25 inches long

When frame has been nailed, staple on 1 inch of chicken wire.

Step 4: Roof Frame

Cut the following pieces of 1×2 furring and carefully nail as shown in Figure 4.

• 5 pieces 72 inches long
• 2 pieces 44 inches long

Step 5: Door

Cut the following pieces of 1×2 and assemble carefully as shown in Figure 5.

• 4 pieces 27-1/2 inches long
• 4 pieces 25-1/2 inches long

After nailing sections rigidly together, cover with 1 inch chicken wire and attach hinges. This will ease hanging of doors later.

Step 6: Center or Divider Frame

Cut the following pieces of 1×2 and nail as shown in Figure 6.

• 1 piece 21-7/8 inches long
• 1 piece 25-7/8 inches long
• 1 piece 29-7/8 inches long
• 1 piece 30-1/8 inches long

At this point–when doors, roof frame, divider, ends, back and floor sections have been completed–additional pieces of 1×2 should be cut as follows: 3 pieces 1-by-2-by-29-1/2 inches.
Complete assembly by following this sequence:

(a) Position end sections on floor frame and toe-nail each section at each end with 1 four-penny nail.
(b) Nail back section to floor and both ends.
(c) Position and nail divider in place.
(d) Carefully position and toe-nail roof frame to back and end sections.
(e) Nail two 29-1/2 inch pieces of 1×2 on front (one at each end) to roof frame and ends of coop.
(f) Hang doors.
(g) Position remaining length of 1-by-2-by-29-1/2-inch between doors. Make certain doors swing freely.
(h) Attach hooks and eyes to doors and center piece.
(i) Nail a small cleat to the frame of coop to act as a stop for the top of each door.
(j) Cover roof frame with 1inch of chicken wire and carefully staple in place. If a heavy object (sledge hammer, piece of iron or rock) is held against the under side of the 1×2 during this operation the staple will drive easier and you’ll prevent damage to frame. Cover only top, not outside edges, of frame. Trim excess wire.
(k) Cover entire roof frame with black building paper. Tack on at outside edges, placing tacks approximately 3 inches apart. Fold to box corners neatly.
(l) Cut 30 pound heavy tar paper to fit top area of roof and cement (do not tack or nail) to black paper. Spread a two inch wide area of cement all around outer edges and add a spot here and there at random on the remaining area. Cement, when dry, will hold the tar paper without nails. If nails are used they will eventually be drawn out by temperature change, causing later difficulties.

Originally published as “Pequoda’s Rabbit Hutch” in the November/December 1970 issue of MOTHER EARTH NEWS.